H&M has made no commitment to stop using wool after senior executives held talks with animal rights campaigners following a confrontation at New York Fashion Week.

Representatives from the Swedish fashion group met People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals on September 25 to discuss concerns over the treatment of sheep in the wool industry.

PETA said the meeting ended without H&M agreeing to phase out wool and described the talks as a “big disappointment”.

H&M declined to comment publicly on the outcome of the meeting.

Meeting followed Fashion Week confrontation

The talks followed a protest during a COS runway show in New York on September 13.

COS is owned by H&M Group.

PETA activists entered the runway to protest against the use of wool, leading to a physical confrontation involving then-Council of Fashion Designers of America chief executive Steven Kolb.

Video showed Kolb restraining protesters and covering one demonstrator’s mouth as she shouted during the show.

Kolb later apologised and subsequently resigned from the CFDA.

H&M said after the incident that it respected people’s right to express their views and agreed that animals should not be harmed in the production of fashion.

PETA raises concerns over wool supply chain

The dispute centres on PETA allegations concerning conditions at wool operations supplying the wider fashion industry.

PETA has cited footage from a South African operation which it says was certified under NATIVA, one of the certification schemes recognised in H&M’s supply chain.

The animal rights group alleges that footage showed sheep being kicked, dragged and injured during shearing.

Those allegations are made by PETA and have not been established by a court.

H&M continues to permit certified wool

H&M’s current materials policy does not prohibit wool.

The group says virgin wool and other animal hair must come from farms certified to recognised animal welfare standards.

Its policy includes standards such as the Responsible Wool Standard and also permits recycled wool which meets approved certification requirements.

H&M also prohibits wool from farms practising mulesing and maintains bans on materials including real fur, exotic skins and angora rabbit hair.

That remains the main disagreement between H&M and PETA.

H&M argues that recognised certification can provide safeguards around animal welfare, while PETA maintains that certification does not necessarily prevent abuse.

Campaign set to continue

PETA has said H&M and COS remain major targets of its campaign against the use of wool.

The group has staged protests at both New York and London Fashion Week and says it intends to continue demonstrations and other campaigning aimed at the retailer.

H&M has not announced any plan to stop using wool.